Shoe upper and method of finishing the edges thereof



Juli 6 1926-, 1,591,059

, v F. s. SHEF iMANf SHOE UPPER AND METHOD OF FINISHING THE EDGES THEREOF Filed July 9. 19%:

III/II F g5 Wvzwram Patented July 6 1926.

UNITED STATES A 1,591,059. PATENT OFFICE.

EEED s. 'srIEmuAN, E CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIeNoa'ro UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSOZN, NEw JERSEY, A co ronA'rIoN on NEW JERSEY.

sIIoE UPPER AND METHOD 0 FINISHING 'rnE EDGES 'rEEEE'oE.

Application filed July 9,

In the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly of fancy shoes for women, it has been common practice to finish some or all of the edges of the upper, which are displayed in the finished shoe, by the use of a strip of fabric. One method which has recently come into use is disclosed in the patent to Daniels No. 1,400,806. According to the patented method, a alloon is used which consists of a strip of fabric folded alon its substantially median longitudinal line a out a cord, the two plies which result being of substantially equal width and held together by cement. This-galloon is stitched to the margin -.on the display side of the upper with the corded edge of the galloon spaced somewhat from the edge of the upper; the margin of the upper on that side which will be hidden in the finished shoe (hereinafter referred. to as the hidden side), is coated with cement; the margin of the upper, with the galloon attached, is folded about a line adjacent to the cord in such manner as to cause the corded edge of the galloon to lie along the folded edge of the upper, and the folded-over parts are pressed against the hidden side of the upper. The upper, with its edge thus finished, is then' fastened t'othe lining of the shoe by .a row of stitches located just inside of the corded edge. This method forms the subject-matter of the patent, to which reference is made for a more detailed description. I

In performing this last stitching operation, it is customary to use a machine which not only stitches the lining to the upper but also trims off that portion of the lining which projects beyond the edge of theupper. The machine commonly used comprises a .presser wheel which runs along the margin of the upper, a needle, and a chopping knife which is reciprocated in an inclined. path so as to sever the lining on a bevel along a line inside the edge of the upper. In the opera- .5 tion of attaching and undertrimming the lining, two difficulties have arisen one of which is due to the frequent loosening of one ply of the galloon and the other of which is due to the too great thickness of the folded 4' upper in the locality adjacent to the corded is has been explained above, the atented galloon has two plies of substantial y equal width which are fastened together by ce- 1923. Serial No. 650,430.

ment. \Vhen, therefore, the folding operation has been completed and the piece of work is ready to have the lining attached, one ply of the galloon has been cemented to the upper leather and the other ply has been cemented to the first-named ply. Owing, however, to the fact that fabric will adhere to leather much more strongly than fabric v will adhere to fabric, the outer ply of the two is frequently found to have become loosened in some localities from the ply which is cemented to the leather. When, now, the upper, with one ply of the alloon more or less loosened, and free, is p aced-upon the lining, and the stitching and undertrimming operation is begun, this loose or free ply frequently becomes displaced, with the result t at the operator must stop at Intervals to tuck it back into its proper position, since otherwise it would be severed by the knife and its frayed edge left exposed.

With regard ,to the second difficulty referred toabove as being due to the too great thickness of the folded upper in the locality adjacent to'the corded edge, one trouble here lies in properly guiding the work during the stitching and'undertrimming operation. As has been explained, the machine comprises a presser wheel which runs along the margin of the work. The operator must guide the work by his eye and must keep the wheel close to the corded edge. When the patented method is practiced, the locality of the work engaged by the presser wheel comprises the two plies of the folded leather, the two plies of the galloon and .the lining. The

work is consequently so thick in the locality that the presser wheel does not depress the upper surface of the leather below the level of the corded edge with the result that there, is nothing to prevent the wheel from running olf from the edge of the work. This runningrofl', therefore, frequently occurs with the result that the undertrimming is unevenly accomplished and that there is danger of injurlng the work.

According to the present invention, a galloon is provided a portion of which is of a 1 single ply or thickness, the galloon being attached to the margin on one side of the upper material in such manner that, after the work is folded, this single thickness hes u on and is attached directly to the margin of the-other side of-the upper material.

a line located at one side of the median line of the strip in such manner that the two plies which resultfrom the folding are of unequal width, is attached to the display side of the upper with the narrower ply next to the upper so that, after the margin of the upper with the attached galloon has been folded, the narrower ply of the galloon is enclosed between the wider ply and the upper, and the margin of the wider ply is cemented directly to the upper. In this way the liability which formerly existed of one ply becoming separated from the other is obviated. The actual width of the narrower ply will,'of course, depend upon how far to one side of the medial longitudinal line of the tape the fold in the tape is 10 cated. In the illustrative embodiment of the invention in which the galloon is made with the use of cement, the narrower ply has an appreciable width. It should be understood,

' partly in elevation of a portion of the linhowever, that the particular manner 1n which the galloon is made is immaterial in the broader aspects of the invention so long as the galloon' is provided with a portion made up of a single ply which may be folded over and attached directly to' the upper material.

When this method is practised, the thickness of the folded upper adjacent to the corded edge in the locality engaged by the presser wheelof the lining-attaching and trimming machine is reduced substantially by the thickness of one ply of the galloon. The presser wheel may, therefore, depress the, surface of the leather until the corded edge extends somewhat. above said surface and prevents the. wheel .from running off from the work.

Referring now to the accompanying drawings.:- 4

Figure 1 isa perspective of a portion of a galloon.

Figure 2' is a perspective showing the galloon attached to a piece of skived upper leather. 4

Figure 3 is a perspective of the same parts as Fig. 2 but in their folded position.

Figure l is a view partly in section and ing attaching and trimming machine showing1 a piece .of work being operated upon, an

Figure 5 shows work.

The illustrative galloon consists of a bindin}; strip, which is usually of fabric,,'folded about a cord 5 along a line located at one side of the median longitudinal line of the strip whereby the two plies 7 and 9,-- which result, are of unequal width, the wider ply 9 extending well beyond the edge of the a portion of thecompleted narrower ply 7, the two plies being fastened together by any suitable adhesive. The galloon, 'thus prepared, is attached to the display side of the upper 11 in the manner shown in Fig. 2 by stitches 13 which pass through the galloon close to its corded "edge, the narrow ply 7 of the galloon being next to the upper. As shown, the leather is skived on its flesh side, and the galloon is so located that the outer edge of the narrow ply 7 registers with the edge of'the leather and the wide ply 9 extends well beyond the edge of the leather. .Cement (by which is meant. any suitable adhesive substance) is applied to the skived surface and to the under side (as viewed in Fig. 2) of the ply 9. The leather with the attached galloon is folded into the position shown in Fig 3 and the fold pressed. The step of applying cement to the margin of the work prior to the folding operation is commonly carried out by a machine having a cement-applying roll; and in order to. ensure that this roll shall not pick up threads and fuzz from the frayed edges of the galloon, said galloon will preferably be made from a piece of tape bothiedges of which have a selvage.

Itwill be noted that at the stage shown in Fig. 3 the narrow ply 7 is enclosed between the wide ply 9 and the leather and that that portion of the wide'ply which extends beyond the narrow ply is attached directly to the leather; Fabric will under these conditions adhere very tenaciously to leather so that there is little if any danger that the outer ply 9 will become loose.

In Fig. 4 the step of attaching the lining 15 and undertrimming its projecting portion is shown. In this figure the table of the machine'is indicatedat 17, .the presser wheel at 19, the needle at 21 and the inclined reciprocating'chopping knife at 23. In the operation of this machine the work is vfed away from the observer, the presser wheel 19 running along the folded margin of the leather close to the corded edge, the'needle passing through the crease between the corded edge and the edge of the fold in the leather, or substantially through that locality, and the knife 23 severing the lining on a bevel inside the line of the corded edge; One difficulty referred to above as having arisen in practising the patented method will now be clear, since it is' obvious that if the outer ply 9 becomes loose," it will be liable to be out by the knife 23 and that the I operator is compelled in such case to stop theoperation of the machine long enough to tuck the ply back into place whenever a loose section is encountered. With the presentmethod no such difficulty arises, since the outer ply is firmly attached directly to the leather.

It will also be noted that, owing to the fact that the ply 7 is narrower than the ply 9, there is less material in' the work in the cord in such manner that the two plies which locality engaged by the presser wheel than in the patented method, so that the pressure exerted by this wheel may depress the upper surface of the leather to a lower level than is possible when the two plies of the galloon areof equal width. This depression of the upper surfatie may be very slight so long as it is suflicient to cause the corded edge to extend above that surface and thereby pre-' vent the wheel from running ofl from the work. This reduction, in the thickness of the folded portion is also brought about to some,extent by the, initial placing of the galloon as shown in Fig. 2 with the line of stitches extending through the outer portion of the, skive on the leather with the edge'of the narrow ply 7 in substantial register with the edge'of the skive.

It should be understood that the drawings are upon an exaggerated scale and are probably not strictly accurate. The foldin 1 is commonly done on a machine provided with a hammer which strikes the folded over portionwith considerable force,

thereby distorting more or less said folded over portion; an'dathis distortion, together -with the diminutive size'of the parts, makes accurate illustration diflicult.

The invention has been described as involvingthe use of a fabric galloon. It should be understood, however, that while a leather galloon made and applied in accordance with the patent will-give no difliculty by reason of one ply becoming loose, the difliculty concerned with the increased thickness of the folded work adjacent to the corded edge will still arise; and this increased thickness is'undesirable in any event;

The usefulness of the present invention is,

therefore, not confined to the employment of a galloon of any particular 7 material.

Having thus described my invention, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: V e 1. The method of finishin the edge 'of a piece of upper material whic compnses attaching to the margin of the display side of the material with its narrower ply next to the material a galloon consisting ofa strip of bindin [folded longitudinally aboutv a cord in sue manner'that the two plies which result from the fold are of unequal width, applying cement to the margin of the composite' plece of work thus formed, and fold- 1ng the margin of the work about a line which is adjacent and parallel to the cord in such manner that the wider ply is attached directl to theupper material.

' 2. The method of finishin the edge of a piece of upper material whic comprlses attaching to the margin of the display sideof the material with its narrower ply next to the material a galloon consistin of a strip of binding folded longitudin y .pbo'ut a result from the fold are. of unequal width, applying cement to the mar of the composite piece of Work thus ormed, foldlng the margin of the work about a line which is adjacent and parallel to the cord in such manner that the wider ply is attached directly to the upper material, attaching a lining to "the composite piece and trimming the lining. I I

3. The method of finishing the edge of a piece of upper material which comprises attaching to the margin of the display side of the piece a galloon consisting of a strip of binding folded longitudinally about a cord along a line located at one side of the longi: tudinal median line of the strip so that the mar of the galloon remote from the cord consists of a single thickness, foldin margin of the upper with the attache galloon about a line which is adjacent to the,

cord in such manner as to cause the corded edge of the alloon to extend along the folded ed e of t e piece and pressing the single ply 'o the galloon into contact with the hidden side of the material I A I 4. The method of finishing the edge of a piece of upper material which comprises attaching to the margin of the display side of the piece a galloon consisting of a strip of binding folded longitudinally about a cord along a line located-at one side of the longitudinal median line of the stri so that the margin of the galloon remote rom the cord consists of a'single thickness, folding the margin of the upper with the attache galloon about a line which "is adjacent to the cord in such manner as to cause the corded edge of the lloon to extend along the folded edge of t e piece, pressing the single ply of'the allooninto contact with the ludden side o the material, attaching a lining 'to the upper and severing the projectlng' portion of the lining.

5. The method of finishing the edge ofta the piece of skived uppler material which com prises stitching to t e margin of the display side of the iece a galloon consistingof a strip of b' (F a cord alon' a line located at one side of the longitudinal median. line ofthe strip in mg folded longitudinally about such manner that the two plies of-rthe fold are of unequal width with the narrower ply in contact with the upper material, the hue of stitches passing'through the outer portion of the skive, and the edge of the narrowply registering substantially'with the edge of the skive, applying cement to'the margin of the COmPOSItB' piece ofwork thus formed,

and folding the-margin of thework about sixline which is-"adjacent and parallel "to the. cord in such manner that the wider-ply is attached directly to the upper material.

6. The method of finishing the ed 'e of a piece of skived upper material whic com cord in such mannerthat the resulting plies stitched to the folded-over portion of the upper adjacent to the cord and the Wider prises stitching to the margin of the display side of the'piece a galloon consisting of a strip of binding-folded longitudinally about a cord along a line located at one side of the longitudinal median line of the strip in such manner that the two plies of the fold are of unequal width withthe narrower ply in contact with the upper material, the line of stitches passing through the outer portion of the skive, and the edge of the nar row ply registering substantially with the edge of the skive, applying cement to the margin of the composite piece of work thus formed, folding the margin of the work about a line' which is adjacent and parallel to the cord in' such manner that the wider ply is attached directly to the upper mathe narrower ly in contact with the upper material, and olding the margin of the com.-

posite piece of work thus formed about a linewhich is parallel to the cord in such manner that the narrower ply is enclosed between the wider ply and the upper material. a

8. A shoe upper having amargin the outer portion of which is folded over the inner portion and a galloon consisting of a strip of binding folded longitudinally about a are of unequ al width, the galloon being ply of the galloon enclosing the narrower ply between it and the upper and being directly attached to the upper along that margin which is remote from the cord.

9. A shoe upper having a skived margin the outer portion of which is folded over the inner portion and a galloon consisting of a strip of binding folded longitudinally about a cord in such manner that the resulting plies are of unequal width, the galloon being stitched to the folded-over portion of the upper adjacent to the cord, and the wider ply of the galloon enclosing the narrower ply between it and the upper and being directly attached to the upper along that margin which is remote from the cord.

10. A shoe upper having a folded margin and a galloon consisting of a strip of fabric folded longitudinally about a cord in such manner that the resulting plies are of unequal width, the galloon being stitched to the folded-over portion of the u per adjacent to the cord, the wider ply o the galloon enclosing the narrower ply between it andt'he upper and being directly attached to the upper along that marginwhich is remote from the cord, and a lining stitched to the galloon and having its edge beveled.

11. A shoe upper having a margin the outer portion of which is folded over the mner portion and a galloon consisting of a strip of binding folded longitudinally about a cord in such manner that the resulting plies are of unequal width, the galloon being stitched to the folded-over portion of the upper adjacent to the cord and the under ply of the galloon enclosing the narrower plybetween it and the upper.

" In testimony whereof I have signed "my name to this specification.

FRED s. SHERMAN. 

